Day 30 a day of rest in Triacastela

Long lie in just wonderful, breakfast at 08.30 fabulous. Lots of coffee ☕️ this morning sat in front of the fire 🔥Feet and legs are feeling good too.

Yesterday was the last day I walked with Aimée from Colorado. For me a well earned rest day in Triacastela. We’re planning on meeting up in Santiago on Sunday evening. There are people who come into your life as lessons and there are those who come into your life as a blessing. Aimée is a beautiful blessing, I’ll treasure the time we walked and shared food together, washed down with the obligatory cerveza con limon and a glass or two of red wine 🍷 🤣

Theres not much to do here in Triacastela, which is surprising because of the significance this town once had as an important stop for medieval pilgrims. The three castles in Triacastela are no longer standing. However a plethora of bars, restaurants, albergue’s and hostels cater for the post modern pilgrims. 

I might catch up with a bit of strictly as I’ve not seen or heard anything about the current series! 💃🕺🪩🥂Before that I’m going to don my shoes and coats and go explore before the weather closes in! TTFN 

That’s me walked around and explored Triacastela, had a coffee with the locals in a wee bar just down the road from Casa Simon. Now feet up, and a bit of strictly for an hour! 

Tonight I’m going to eat in the only restaurant open now in Triacastela! I’ll be early to bed, no surprise there then off to Sarria in the morning. 

Buen Camino 😘 

#josiewalksthecamino

#eastanglianairambulance

You can Donate Here!! – I have now raised just over £1700, I have big hopes for a big final total. Please share my adventures on your social media with the hashtags above, I’m trying to raise as much as possible for a good cause.

Day29 O Cebreiro to Triacastela 22.7Km

Day 29. The clocks fell back and I had an extra hour in bed! Luxury! 

8 o’clock start this morning and it’s light, whoop 🙌 whoop 🙌. Stunning views this morning from the top of the mountain. At such heights, a wider perspective opened up. We see an infinity of landscape below, feel and hear the wind as we traversed around the side of the mountain? You couldn’t really appreciate this view last night as the weather had closed in!

A delightful forest track winds it’s way around the mountain before dropping down a little. We passed through a charming hamlet with a very pretty church, all the guide books recommend you take your time to explore these delightful churches, unfortunately majority of them are closed.

Slowly upwards we climbed to Alto de San Rogue, where a statue of a medical pilgrim watches over Galicia. Very windy on top of the mountain, that’s why he’s holding onto his hat! 

We passed through lots of little farming hamlet with livestock. The cobbled path has been worn down not only by pilgrims but by the cows who walk the path too. Highlight in every hamlet were the many tractors 🚜 on the Camino ranging from a yellow Renault to a white Lamborghini tractor. Lamborghini tractors who knew!

More stamps in our credentials as we stopped for refreshments. I’m on my 3rd credential! The weather closed in just like it does in the national parks at home and we hunkered down to walk the last 5K.

Steep descent into Triacastela, combination of rock, mud stones and slippery leaves. I’m not a big fan of walking down steep hills! I look a bugger as I very slowly crab like my way down and traverse where I can. I don’t know how fell runners do it! Any way I arrived safe and sound and was very happy to be checking into Casa Simon, where I’m staying for two nights.

Missed the only mass of the week, which was tonight at 6 o’clock. Church closed because the priest is unwell. Hey ho!

This is the last day I’ll be walking with the lovely Aimée from Colorado. I’ve planned a rest day in Triacastela tomorrow, and she will continue her path in the morning . Hopefully we’ll meet up again in Santiago on Sunday evening.

Buen Camino 😘 

#josiewalksthecamino

#eastanglianairambulance

You can Donate Here!! – I have now raised just over £1700, I have big hopes for a big final total. Please share my adventures on your social media with the hashtags above, I’m trying to raise as much as possible for a good cause.

Day 28! Three amigos and Victor ride up into Galicia and a bagpipe welcome into O Cebreiro.

What weather? I am so happy and grateful I rode on horseback up through the mountains to O Cebreiro. The whole experience was wonderful and the scenery spectacular.

My horse was very patient and gentle with me. I must admit I was a wee bit apprehensive but settled into the saddle quickly as the pace was pretty slow!

All that old Alexander Technique training came in handy today. I tried not to over grip with my inner thighs, but have admit just over half way through I could start to feel my seat! 

Stunning, stunning and even more stunning scenery the higher we climbed. What an amazing experience. Thank you Victor, Hoshang and Maria.

Perched on a high ridge in Galicia, the beautiful rustic village of O Cebreiro sits welcoming pilgrims. This small hamlet is impossibly charming with its hobbit like buildings. I believe these conical shaped houses are unique to O Cebreiro

Where we’re staying La Venta Celta is rustic charm personified, with a roaring open fire welcoming us and keeping us warm and dry. Homemade Galician soup and a hearty chunk of bread for lunch. Just what I needed!

The pilgrims mass at 7 o’clock tonight was very touching and extra special. We received blessings and special prayers and little stones with the yellow arrow painted on them, showing us the way and love on the Camino. Obligatory glass of wine after mass then early to bed! 

I’ve had one of the best days on the Camino thus far. Thinking about tomorrow I start my last week on the Camino walking to Triacastela, where I’m staying for two nights, having a rest day to catch up with stuff!

Buen Camino 😘 

#josiewalksthecamino

#eastanglianairambulance

You can Donate Here!! – Please share my adventures on your social media with the hashtags above, I’m trying to raise as much as possible for a good cause.

Day27 Ponferrada to Villafranca del Portazgo 25.6Km

Day 27 and I’m under 200K now! Phew 😆 Bloody horrendous wet start for the first hour today. To be fair it has tried to brighten up! Intermittent heavy rain kept the waterproof gear on all day!

I walked with Aimée again today, she’s a really good Camino buddy. Funny, and on our path today the conversation flowed and we covered an eclectic mix of subjects. No surprise there then! 🤣

The scenery has changed and you can see autumn is well on its way with the rich pallet of rustic colours. The big landscapes were spectacular as we walked through the vineyards on our approach to Villafranca. 

Villafranca is a lovely town nestled in the valley everywhere you look you’re surrounded by mountains.

Where I’m staying Las Doñas del Portazgo is beautiful and decorated just perfect. Hot shower, stretched and now I’m off to find supper.  

Casa Mendez for the perfect pilgrims supper for only 13 euros, which included half bottle of red wine 🍷 not bad.

Early to bed, hope I sleep because I’m really excited about riding on horseback into Galicia with Victor, Hoshang and Maria.

All in all a much better day than yesterday! Thank you for reading my lovelies. All your love and support keeps me going! 🤣👻🎃🍷👸🍀

Buen Camino 😘 

#josiewalksthecamino

#eastanglianairambulance

You can Donate Here!! – Please share my adventures on your social media with the hashtags above, I’m trying to raise as much as possible for a good cause.

Day26 Foncebadón to Ponferrada 31.7Km

Day 26! Foncebadón to Ponferrada should have been 26.9K actually 31.68K!

Biblical weather today it’s not stopped bloody raining! The wind has been relentless too! Unfortunately the Camino path was more like a quagmire, rivers flowing through the paths with gigantic puddles up to your calf depth!

We decided it would be safer to walk in a group today given the weather forecast. Myself Aimée and Alycia started our route up to Cruz de Ferro around 8.30. A lot later than usual because of the weather and the light.

I have to say I was underwhelmed with the Cruz. I’m not too sure what I was expecting. Certainly not a main road, a car park and the little church was closed! As custom I lay my rock down at the base of the cross and read Maya Angelou’s Still I Rice. Some reflection then we were back walking the Camino.

So, the road it is. Hard on the feet,  the silver lining today was the views when the weather broke for a nano second were spectacular in the valleys.

The Scottish writer, Nan Shepherd loved walking after rainfall, noting the smell of trees releasing their perfume. I think she would have been hard pressed to smell anything after todays deluge!

We had a great lunch stop in Riego de Ambrós with drying out and steaming pilgrims. Home made meatballs salad and real chips, it was just fabulous.

Molinaseca was lovely and I would have loved to explore! Coming out of Molinaseca the sign said 7K to go. That hurt the three of us as we trudged along the path! 

If I was walking for myself instead of raising money for EAAA #eastanglianairambulance I certainly would have got in a taxi to Ponferrada. It truly was one of the most horrible days walking I’ve ever experienced and at the end of the day I was totally spent.

Thank you all so much for all your kind donations, love and support and for the bucket loads of encouragement. I certainly needed it today!  For an idea of the conditions check the video.

Early to bed for Josie! TTFN.

Buen Camino 😘 

#eastanglianairambulance

#josiewalksthecamino

You can Donate Here!! – Your donations are adding up and make my efforts so much more meaningful, big thanks to the lovely Sophie C for her recent generous donation, the total so far is just under £1650!!. Please share my adventures on your social media with the hashtags above, I’m trying to raise as much as possible for a good cause.

Day25 Astoria to Foncebadon 27.3Km

Sunrise is getting later! Up at 08.50 today. Ooh very dark this morning leaving Astorga, but at least it was dry. Apart from a short walk through cobbled streets passing the church, which was lovely. It was very uninspiring walking out of Astorga. Mostly followed the main road.

I was disappointed with the breakfast this morning at Hotel Gaudí! However my first stop of the day was a pretty little village where I met Aimee who was walking by as I was finishing my coffee. 

We walked together for the rest of the day. Chatting about this and that and laughing 😆 

We had a steady climb all day and we appreciated the changing landscape, much more greener, trees and forests with a much more rockier walking path.

Another stop along the way another coffee and something to eat, plus the obligatory stamp for our credential. We had a good stop for lunch in Rabanal del Camino. Oh my 

we were ready for this! Cerveza con limon with a calamari Bocadillo and aioli hit the mark. 

Alycia caught up with us scaring the bloody pants off me! Christ she should be known as the stealth Dutch pilgrim. Oh how we laughed! 

Steeper into Foncebadón weather closing in and it’s raining! Lovely place I’m staying with a great pilgrims menu and Bandai, Tess, Hoshang, Maria are all staying here too.

I’m very apprehensive about tomorrow walking down the mountain the weather forecast is not going to be good, plus I have to take my glasses off when it rains! 🤦‍♀️

That’s me off to bed. Night night 😘 

Buen Camino 😘  

#josiewalksthecamino

#eastanglianairambulance

You can Donate Here!! – Not only have I reached the spiritual midway point of the Camino but I have also raised nearly £1600 but no new donations since Sunday. Please share my adventures on your social media with the hashtags above, I’m trying to raise as much as possible for a good cause.

Day24 Hospital de Órbigo to Astorga 18.3Km.

Day 24 on the Camino. Hospital de Órbigo to Astorga 18.3K. A lovely, lovely short walking day.

Dry and dark start to the day, phew! No breakfast at the Hostal so a cup of mint tea and I’m off. Later than usual as today is a relatively short walk. I can’t believe how dark it still is at 8am! 

The first village there was nothing open. Maybe I should have ordered breakfast at the hostel. However the Camino provides and in the second little village I passed through there was a donativo albergue open for breakfast. It was like stepping back in time. I was greeted by a bellowing hola from the kitchen as I put my bag down. An elderly hospitalaro walked in and after introductions I ordered breakfast. Toasted bread, marmalade and café americano. Definitely the auld days as my coffee came in this huge bowl and toasted bread just kept coming! 

Enter two more pilgrims, a lovely man from the Netherlands and Aimé from Colorado. They both ordered cafe con lèche, which came with a biscuit and small croissant. I shared my toast with Aimé no waste, which I like.

It started raining and I donned my new wet weather gear and off I went with the lovely Aimé. We walked all the way into Astorga chatting about this and that. Surprisingly the kilometres just melted away and before we knew it we were in Astorga! 

Astorga is beautiful. At the hotel check in was Maria, Hoshang, Arlene and a lovely Chinese couple. We’re all stalking each other as we’ve been staying in the same places for the past few days! Spooky 👻 

Following lunch a little walk round Astorga not too much as I’ve got a big walk tomorrow to Foncébadon! 

It’ll be an early night for me! TTFN 😘 

Buen Camino 😘 

#josiewalksthecamino

#eastanglianairambulance

You can Donate Here!! – Please share my adventures on your social media with the hashtags above, I’m trying to raise as much as possible for a good cause.

Day 23 Leon to Hospital de Órbigo 34.7Km

Wet walking day! Newly acquired waterproof trousers and poncho have kept me very dry. Happy days!

It was another long hard slog today as we walked most of the day along the N-120. We had two different routes to choose from I chose the shorter option by an hour. The other was supposed to be the scenic route. At dinner talking to other Peregrinos they did not think so.

All I can say it was wet and grey today, the weather broke as I walked into Hospital de Órbigo and was dry for the rest of the day.

My hostel was closed until 4.30 so I had an hour to kill and certainly didn’t walk around the town. Opposite there was a bar and restaurant, cerveza con limon was calling. I stood in the doorway and it was full of old Spanish men all playing cards. Not too sure if it’s a weekly thing or a competition.

I took off my wet weather gear and shoes at the door as unobtrusive as possible. I starting laughing as I wondered if they thought I might be the half time entertainment! 🤣

Fully refreshed it was time to go and check in. I’m desperate for a shower and need to practice yoga! AH! That’s much better now for food. I didn’t go far had a much better reception at the bar and restaurant, a lot of smiles and a pat on the back too.

Pilgrims dinner was lovely, protein with carbs to refuel with a couple of glasses of tinto included in the 14€ price.

It funny when I started I would go out and walk about taking in the sites and a few pictures! We’re all the same at the end of a long walk. Shower, stretch, eat then sleep ready for tomorrow.

I meant to say the walk into Hospital de Órbigo was a joy over the bridge. Mind you my feet were saying that walking over the cobblestone!

Well that’s it for today. Ooh! I have a bit of lie in tomorrow morning as I have a shorter walk, so I’m starting at 8am. Thank you for all your encouragement and support. Much appreciated my lovelies. TTFN

Buen Camino  😘 

#josiewalksthecamino

#eastanglianairambulance

You can Donate Here!! – Please share my adventures on your social media with the hashtags above, I’m trying to raise as much as possible for a good cause.

Day22 – A Welcome Day of Rest in the wonderful city of León.

No blessings from priests today however I did share a bottle of wine with a retired priest in the hostel where I was staying. 

León is the capital of the province of León. Noted for its architecture, churches, cathedral and art. The Gothic 13th century Cathedral de León was spectacular. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so much stained glass in one cathedral! 

The streets are lively and vibrant, full of colour lots of geraniums hanging over balconies. The buildings are a delight with all their different design and styles.

Lots to see and I would have loved to explore more. After washing my clothes I visited the Gaudí Museum, fabulous well worth a visit and for those of you who know me well will not be surprised I spent most of the morning there! A little wander around and a light lunch I then visited the cathedral. Wow, wow and wow again. I preferred Leon’s cathedral to the cathedral in Burgos. The light streaming through the stained glass, the exquisite carvings and who was who buried in the cathedral! 

Back at the Hostel Covent Garden we all cooked and ate supper there. There was just the five of us who were staying there, all girlies. A bit different from Saturday night where I shared a 6 bunk bed dorm with 5 young Spanish bucks celebrating on a stag do! Interesting and funny experience. 

I feel  good, todays rest has been good. Early start for Monday as I have a 30K plus day ahead of me. Night, night. 

Buen Camino 😘 

Buen Camino 😘 

#josiewalksthecamino

#eastanglianairambulance

You can Donate Here!! – Please share my adventures on your social media with the hashtags above, I’m trying to raise as much as possible for a good cause.

Day21 Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon

It was dark leaving Mansilla with no sign of wind or rain, I’m dancing! The sunrise was beautiful this morning. Although most of the walk today would be sandwiched between the N-120 and A-40 it didn’t dampen my spirit! 

I treated myself to the last hour of Tony Blackburns Sound of the 60’s, sang and danced my way to my first stop for the obligatory second breakfast. Saturday morning and the bakery come cafe was bustling with locals, most welcoming and I enjoyed great coffee and a the speciality of I think of as a baked cheesecake.

On my route I bumped into many pilgrims, especially enjoyed meeting the three Spanish ladies, I think they are or were nuns? They are always so kind and have beautiful smiles when you meet them. 

My other Peregrinos I keep bumping into are a trio of French men, they have adopted me and I’m no longer the lovely Scottish girl. I’ve been promoted to Queen Josephine! 🤣 ooh La La! 

You can see León in all its splendour from a high point, tantalisingly close. But as I’ve learned it’s not so close! We had to walk another 4K. The streets here are wide with a lot of shops, cafes and other businesses and busy with traffic. As we entered the old walls surrounding parts of Leon the streets narrowed and I enjoyed meandering towards my abode for the next couple of nights.

I’m not disappointed with my choice, Juan my host was very welcoming and funny. This place is a full floor of an old Spanish building on the corner opposite the Gaudí Museum and a stones throw from the cathedral. 

Have had a little wander! All clean, wined and fed, now off to bed! Night, night. 😴

Buen Camino 😘 

#josiewalksthecamino

#eastanglianairambulance

You can Donate Here!! – Please share my adventures on your social media with the hashtags above, I’m trying to raise as much as possible for a good cause.

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